According to designer Krista Virtanen, Kuura Saunawear proves that wood-based textile fibres play important role in the textile industry’s transition to a more sustainable future. The collection features Metsä Group’s Kuura fibre produced from softwood pulp, and it will be presented at the World Expo in Osaka, Japan, and in Helsinki, Finland, this autumn.
Fashion designer Krista Virtanen’s Kuura Saunawear prototype collection is made of soft terry featuring the Kuura fibre. The textile fibre developed by Metsä Group is produced on the Äänekoski bioproduct mill site.
“The textile industry is a major source of emissions globally, and raw material production accounts for a large share of the emissions. Wood-based fibres such as Kuura play a very important role in the textile industry’s transition to a more sustainable future,” says Krista Virtanen, a fashion and textile designer, who is graduating from Aalto University this year. She is also familiar to audiences of the Finnish version of Project Runway.
The fibre is made from softwood pulp produced from raw material that comes from Metsä Group’s owner-members’ nearby forests.
“The Kuura fibre has attracted wide international interest. Its strengths include product quality, a natural feel, and better environmental values* than those of other cellulose-based fibres,” says Anna-Kaisa Huttunen, who is responsible for Kuura business development at Metsä Group.
Kuura offers an alternative to cellulose-based fibres, viscose, Lyocell and cotton, as well as to synthetic oil-based fibres such as polyester. Unlike polyester, it does not contribute to the microplastics problem, and the fibre itself is biodegradable and recyclable. Kuura can be used on its own and combined with cotton and wool, for example.
Saunawear: outfits for the sauna, forest and city
The Kuura Saunawear prototype collection demonstrates the potential of wood-based textile fibres as a solution for a more sustainable fashion and textile industry. The production of various end products is an important part of testing Kuura’s potential. The collection includes five unisex and one size garments: a skirt, trousers, a jacket, a bag and a sauna cap. The street style design makes the clothes suitable not only for post-sauna cooling but also for city use.
“The scent and texture of wood are strongly associated with sauna bathing, so it felt very natural to use a wood-based textile fibre to design outfits specifically for the sauna. With this collection, I want to highlight how clothes and textiles can help us relax when we’re very busy,” says Krista Virtanen.
In addition to the fabric, Kuura was used for padding in the outfits. Kuura accounts for 30 per cent, cotton for 70 per cent, of the fabric. The clothes reflect shapes in nature: their stitching is based on the topographical map of Äänekoski, and the fringes along the edges resemble beard lichen.
“I want to design versatile clothes, which is why the sauna bag doubles as a pillow or seat cushion, and the skirt can be spread out as a towel. The jacket can be used as a bathrobe or as an outfit for going out,” says Krista Virtanen.
Kuura is a Metsä Group development project, and a prefeasibility study is currently underway to determine the potential for an industrial-scale Kuura production unit. Kuura Saunawear will be presented at the World Expo in Osaka, Japan on 12 September. The collection will also be on display at the Textile & Fashion Forum in Helsinki on 1 October. It is not for sale to consumers.
“It’s clear that the textile sector is facing a major change due to its climate impact. Kuura alone can’t solve all the problems in the textile industry, but it can be part of the solution,” says Anna-Kaisa Huttunen.
“This collection shows that fashion doesn’t have to be synonymous with unecological practice. Change for the better is possible,” says Krista Virtanen.
*Kuura has received strong recognition in environmental and sustainability assessments.
- According to its life cycle assessment, Kuura’s global warming potential (GWP100) is 80 per cent lower than that of Lyocell fibre and significantly lower than that of viscose and cotton.
- In the 2024 Hot Button Ranking, Kuura was awarded the Green Shirt rating for the fourth time in a row. The assessment was made by Canopy, and the rating requires a transparent risk-free supply chain and traceable raw materials.
In the social impact assessment conducted by CARTIF, a research institute, Kuura’s industrial operating model and production methods received the highest possible score in all categories.