Kuura Saunawear – Fashion from the Finnish forests

Kuura is a textile fibre developed by Metsä Group and produced at a demo plant located at the Äänekoski bioproduct mill area. The raw material for Kuura is paper pulp made from northern softwood, suitable for paper and cardboard production. Our goal is to meet the growing demand for textile fibres by offering alternatives to cotton, synthetic oil-based fibres like polyester, and other cellulose fibres. Kuura does not contribute to microplastic pollution, is recyclable like other cellulose fibres, and Metsä Group can trace the wood-based material back to local forests.

The softwood pulp used to produce Kuura is made at Metsä Group’s bioproduct mill in Äänekoski—the world’s first  pulp mill that operates entirely without fossil-based energy. Since textile fibre production is closely linked to the bioproduct mill, which generates more renewable energy than it consumes, Kuura can be produced efficiently without fossil-based energy. Based on the results of the ongoing development project, Metsä Group is evaluating investment in a commercial plant.

Since Kuura fibre is composed of cellulose, it can replace other cellulose-based fibres such as cotton, viscose, and lyocell. The most well-known lyocell fibre is branded as Tencel.

Textiles made from Kuura fibre are generally as durable as those made from cotton, viscose, or lyocell. These fibres are notable for being both durable in use and biodegradable.

In 2023, 93% of the wood procured by Metsä Group was certified. We know the origin of the wood in all countries from which we source it. Kuura is designed to be made only from wood sourced from certified forests. Therefore, the origin of Kuura’s wood raw material is fully traceable, and the information is available if needed. Currently, third-party auditing covers the wood supply chain from forest to pulp. If a commercial-scale Kuura plant is built, official traceability will be extended to include Kuura fibre itself. This would be straightforward, as all pulp used for Kuura would be supplied by Metsä Group’s neighboring mill.

Metsä Group operates five pulp mills in Finland and Sweden. We use about half of the pulp we produce internally and sell the rest to various customers. We are continuously seeking new, higher-value uses for Finnish wood. The Kuura concept offers Metsä Group an exciting opportunity to refine its pulp into higher-value products without increasing forest harvesting levels.

The most valuable part of the wood—logs—is used in construction, forming long-term carbon storage. Pulpwood, such as thinning wood and small-diameter trees, is used as raw material for pulp, which is further processed into paper, cardboard, and now Kuura fibre.

Metsä Group’s primary goal is to refine the wood material of its parent company, Metsäliitto Cooperative. Our main objective is to develop a new method that enables further processing of Metsä Group’s pulp in Finland. We aim to be the most responsible and desirable player in this segment. We recognize that a functioning circular economy includes various cycles. Alongside direct recycling of side streams and used materials, there is also a longer cycle where carbon circulates via carbon dioxide. In addition to our main concept, we closely monitor market and regulatory developments.

Our developed production method is inherently flexible, as it is designed to use so-called paper-grade pulp. If recycled material is of sufficient quality (comparable to paper-grade pulp), it can be used to produce Kuura fibre. This has been demonstrated at laboratory scale, but chemical recycling of post-consumer textiles is not yet feasible at industrial scale.

The availability of recycled raw material suitable for textile fibre production is likely to improve in the future. However, currently, cellulose-rich waste (e.g., cotton textile waste) is mainly imported to Europe from Asia. It may take until the 2030s before availability in Europe reaches a sufficient level. Also, when comparing virgin and recycled fibre use, it’s important to consider life cycle analysis results. While recycling is desirable, it also has its own environmental footprint. For example, long-distance transport from Asia and processing recycled fibre into usable pulp also have environmental impacts. The environmental benefits of virgin vs. recycled fibre use will become clearer once recycled fibre production reaches industrial scale.

Yes. Different components are typically blended either during yarn production (different fibres) or fabric production (different yarns). We have experimentally blended Kuura fibre with recycled synthetic fibre (used for bus seat upholstery) and fibre made from agricultural straw. We continuously research and test various options for developing Kuura fibre, and in addition to natural fibres, Kuura can be blended with recycled materials.

No. The overconsumption issue in the textile sector is complex and multifaceted. A single fibre innovation cannot solve it. However, we believe the textile industry needs innovations and investments at many levels—such as responsibly produced materials that are comfortable to use and have minimal environmental impact throughout their lifecycle. Kuura fibre could be one such option.

We have invested in the sustainable production of Kuura’s raw material, for example, by adopting regenerative forestry principles. The goal of regenerative forestry is to measurably improve forest biodiversity by 2030.

Kuura fibre can be used for various clothing textiles such as denim, lightweight innerwear fabrics and knits, and workwear. Kuura has already been used to produce denim garments for consumer sale. Additionally, Kuura is suitable for nonwoven fabrics used in beauty and hygiene products and healthcare items. We are also exploring Kuura’s suitability for interior and home textiles as well as technical textile applications.

Primarily in its method of production. In terms of properties and feel, Kuura closely resembles cotton and can be used similarly or blended with cotton or other fibres.

Kuura aims to meet the growing demand for textile fibres by offering alternatives to cotton, other cellulose-based fibres, and synthetic oil-based fibres like polyester. The textile industry faces many challenges, so it is crucial to find alternatives not only to cotton but also to fossil-based textile fibres. Kuura alone cannot solve the industry's problems, but it offers an alternative.

Although Kuura is still in the research and development phase, its environmental impacts have been measured from the early stages of development. In the latest third-party verified life cycle analysis (LCA), Kuura fibre received strong results. The LCA results passed a critical review by RISE (Research Institutes of Sweden).

Kuura has also participated in environmental assessments by the nonprofit organization Canopy. Canopy’s annual Hot Button ranking is one of the most established methods for evaluating the environmental footprint of wood-based textile fibres. Since its launch in 2021, Kuura has consistently achieved the highest “Green Shirt” rating.

The CARTIF research institute has also assessed Kuura’s societal impacts. The results were highly positive, with Kuura’s industrial model and production method receiving the highest scores in all evaluation categories. The results are published on the kuura.io website along with the previous environmental life cycle analysis.